Whilst there has not been a formal Alpine Meet this year, members have been active in the main part of the European Alps and a tem also visited Colorado. The list compiled includes both spring ski ascents as well as the traditional summer alpine activities. The prize for the greatest activity goes to Dave Palmer who has had an incredibly prolific year…as well as climbing a fair number of excellent alpine rock routes on lower peaks, he nabbed 12 of the major 4000m peaks as well as a fair number of subsidiary 4000m summits…his picture below sums up a feeling we all get at times in the Alps!
Will Harris squeezed in the Pierre Allain Route on the North face of the Dru during a busy season guiding; these are noted in the list below. Several others had good trips too and undoubtedly some members activities have been missed altogether, hence the use of ‘Snapshot’ in the title! Apologies to any member not contacted and thanks to everyone who submitted info, allowing this list to be compiled.
Chamonix/Mt Blanc Massif
The Dru
North Face/Pierre Allain Route: Will Harris [RC] and Stu Macaleese
Stu Macaleese on the Lambert Crack. Photo Will Harris
Will Harris on the Martinelli Crack. Photo Stu Macaleese
Descending from the Grand Dru. Photo Will Harris
Aiguille du Moine
Will Harris [RC] guiding clients
La Nonne
Traverse: Jack Helliwell [RC] + partner
Aiguilles de la Republique
Voie Normale: Jack Helliwell and Alastair Graves [both RC]. Photo Alastair Graves
Aiguille du Peigne
Papillons Arete: Andy Tomlinson [RC] and Jeremy Windsor
Les Lepidopteres: Dave Palmer [RC] and Lins Palmer; Alastair Graves [RC] + partner
On the ridge above Les Lepidopteres. Photo Alastair Graves
Peignes-Pellerins-Deux Aigle-Plan-Midi Traverse
Will Harris [RC] + partner
Dent du Geant
South West Face: Andy Tomlinson [RC] and Jeremy Windsor; Dave Palmer [RC] and Lins Palmer. Jeremy Windsor on the upper section of the SW Face. Photo Andy Tomlinson
Aiguilles Marbrees
Traverse: Parminder Chaggar [RC] and Roger McMorrow; Andy Tomlinson [RC] and Jeremy Windsor
Aiguilles d’Entreveres
Traverse: Dave Palmer [RC] and Lins Palmer
Aigulle du Midi
Arete a Laurence: Jack Helliwell and Alastair Graves [both RC]
Arete des Cosmiques: Jack Helliwell [+ partner]; Alastair Graves [+ partner]
Mt Blanc du Tacul
Arete du Diable Traverse: Dave Palmer [RC] +2 partners
Pyramid du Tacul, East Ridge: Parminder Chaggar [RC] and Roger McMorrow
Pointes Lachenal Traverse: Jack Helliwell and Alastair Graves [both RC]. PhotoAG
Mount Blanc
Traverse via Grises Glacier from the Gonella Hut and down the Trois Monts Dave Palmer [RC] and Lins Palmer
Sunrise from the Dome du Gouter. Photo Dave Palmer.
Will Harris [RC] guiding clients
Aiguille de Bionnassay
Traverse: Dave Palmer [RC] and Lins Palmer. Photo Dave Palmer
Mount Tondu and Domes de Miage
Will Harris [RC] guiding clients
Aiguilles du Dorees
W-E Traverse: Dave Palmer [RC] and partner. Photo Dave Palmer
Aiguilles Rouges
Cocher-Cochons: Dave Palmer [RC] and Jim Truman; Alastair Graves [RC] + partner
Hotel California: Andy Tomlinson [RC] and Jeremy Windsor: Alastair Graves [RC] + partner
Clocher-Clochetons Traverse: Alastair Graves [RC] + partner
Monte Rosa Group
Zumsteinspitze
Spring ski ascent: Martin Cooper [RC] and friends
Dave Palmer [RC] + James Hoyes [carried on to this after completing the Liskamm traverse!]
Mike Russell and Jim Paxman [both RC]
Signalkuppe/Punta Gnifetti
Spring ski ascent: Nick Wallis and Martin Cooper [both RC]
Mike Russell and Jim Paxman [both RC]
Dave Palmer [RC] + James Hoyes en route between Liskamm and Zumsteinspitze!
Parrotspitze
Spring ski ascent: Nick Wallis and Martin Cooper [both RC]
Pyramid Vincent
Spring ski ascent: Martin Cooper [RC] and friends
Punta Giordani
Mike and Audrey Russell [both RC]
La Grivola
Mike Russell and Jim Paxman [both RC]. La-Grivola and Gratton bivi. Photo Mike Russell
Liskamm
W-E traverse: Dave Palmer [RC] and James Hoyes. Photo Dave Palmer.
Traverse [S and E Ridges] Rae Pritchard and Neil Sawyer [both RC]. Photo Rae Pritchard.
East Ridge: Mike Russell and Jim Paxman [both RC]. Photo Mike Russell
Castor and Pollux
Spring ski ascents: Mike Russell and Jim Paxman [RC]. Up to W Ridge. Photo Mike Russell.
East Ridge of Castor with Liskamm behind. Photo Mike Russell
Central Valais Group
Matterhorn
Traverse [SW [Italian] and NE [Hornli] Ridges]: Parminder Chaggar [RC] and Roger McMorrow
SW [Italian] Ridge: Andy Tomlinson [RC] and Jeremy Windsor. JW descending Photo AT
Will Harris [RC] guiding clients
Ober Gabelhorn
Traverse [WSW [Arbengrat] and ENE [Wellenkuppe] Ridges: Dave Palmer [RC] and James Hoyes
Zinalrothorn
SW Ridge [Rothorngrat]: Dave Palmer [RC] and James Hoyes. Upper section. Photo DP.
SE Ridge [via the Gabel]: Parminder Chaggar and Andy Tomlinson [both RC]. Descending upper section of the Rothorngrat above the Gabel. Photo Andy Tomlinson
Weisshorn [and Bishorn]
Traverse of Weisshorn [NNW and E Ridges]: Dave Palmer [RC] and Jim Truman. Photo DP
Valais: Mischabel Group
Strahlhorn
Spring ski ascent: Dave Palmer [RC] + partner
Rimpfischhorn
Spring ski ascent: Dave Palmer [RC] + partner
Bernese Oberland
Eiger and Monch
Will Harris [RC] guiding clients
Outlying Regions
Gran Paradiso
Will Harris [RC] guiding clients
Furka Pass area
[Area thoroughly recommended by Andy Stewart using Plaisir Select guidebook]
Salbitschijen
Sudgrat: Dave Palmer [RC] and James Hoyes; Mark Jenneson, Richard Clegg [both RC] and Phil Smith; Andy Stewart and Paul O’Reilly [both RC]
Graue Wand
The classic Niederman route:Andy Stewart and Paul O’Reilly [both RC]
Walkers Haute route [Chamonix to Zermatt]: Helen and Rae Pritchard did this route as training for Helens UTMR (Ultra Tour of Monte Rosa). Rae noted…”we did it in 5 days…a bit quicker than guidebook recommendations [10-12 days!] and was a bit uncomfortable for me!” Below, Helen giving Rae a quick break to take a photo!
Colorado
Bill and Dom had another very successful trip to the States and, on this occasion, not to Yosemite! They did a lot of climbing, but Dom said the following were the only true “alpine” routes! Full details of the trip can be found at: https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2019/08/
Longs Peak
The Diamond Face via the Casual Route: Bill Deakin and Dom Oughton [both RC]. Upper part of Diamond Face from Chasm View. Photo Dom Oughton
Bill Deakin following Pitch 3, with Chasm View behind. Photo Dom Oughton
Petit Grepon
South Face: Bill Deakin and Dom Oughton [both RC]. Photos Dom Oughton.
Great idea Andy.Brilliant pictures.
Well done Andy and everybody else for some great routes and photo’s.
A great compilation.
Good to view photos of the Alps and beyond – always favorites with me. Has anyone bought the Tibbetts book ‘Alpenglow’? Fifty quid well spent!
Hi John, I got the book for my birthday its the best book on the 4000 peaks to date, memories of Brian Cosbys fantastic lecture!!
Hi Dave I too bought Tibbetts book and have written a review for RCJ. He was at Kendal Mountain Festival with a ‘slide’ show. Such a volume should be on every Alpinist’s shelf. What an incredible effort to produce, without a publisher, from crowdfunding! He and his partner sure have energy.
This is brilliant. Well done Andy. And many thanks.